V & A - THE GOLDEN AGE OF COUTURE Paris and London 1947 - 1957

The ‘Golden Age’ set a template for dress making and high fashion. Balenciaga, Balmain and Fath were some of the first Couture houses in Paris. Celebrating the end of war, Couture houses attracted worldwide interest. The prestige and economy of both France and Britain thrived on the production of Couture. While typically catering for a top end clientele, the Couture houses sought new markets. By the late 1950s, the leading Couture houses became global brands.

Christian Dior’s ‘New Look’ plays a predominant part in marking the beginning of one of the most influencial decades of fashion history. For me the most significant piece exhibited is Hardy Amies’ 'New Look Suit'. Wartime style is present in the square shoulders, small waist and wide hips. Amies worked closely with clients to create custom garments, often changing the style to resist the New Look.

For me the major piece is the 'Evening Dress' by Bianchini Ferier. This 'jeune fille' summer dress has a boned petticoat, showing the care given even to the under-garments. Bianchini Férier had provided Parisian couturiers with luxurious silks since the late 19th century. The weight and textural qualities of this velvet construct the shape of the dress. Draped and bouffant style, this garment is the 'belle' of the Golden Age of Couture.